April Fools Day, 2008. I don’t think the tradition exists here in Mexico, although when I noticed we had no running water this morning I was hoping it was just a prank. It has been brutally hot for days now, and the locals say it’s only the beginning. I’ve been taking several cold showers each day in order to stay sane. In this kind of heat the fans offer very little relief, and our little dorm fridge fights a losing battle to keep things cold. It’s become clear to me why—up till now—this leg of the journey has been relatively angst-free, why I haven’t yet resumed my running bitch-fest about life on the pueblo. The weather has been tolerable. It’s as simple as that. Now that the two-week cool season has given way to the fifty-week tropical roast, I find myself desperately wanting to get the bloody hell out of here.
Despite the heat, the knee rehab must go on, and I’ve been literally mopping up pools of sweat after my workouts. The thing that keeps me hanging on is the light at the end of this long, sweltering tunnel. It’s a mere six and a half weeks until Quince de Mayo, the holiest of holy days, otherwise known as the May 15th return date stamped on my plane ticket. Of course, there’s still the dreaded possibility that Mary Alice will be awarded a last-minute grant extension, prolonging her stay an additional twelve weeks. I say “her” stay, because I don’t even want to contemplate another four months in this oven. My knee is coming along too slowly, I think, without my having access to proper exercise equipment, and it could take me at least twelve weeks to find a job and get our lives re-settled back in the States. Maybe I’m just being a wimp, but dude, it’s really, really hot.
Okay—Jesús just fixed the water pipe. That’s awesome—but I still want out. So does Jesús, but for different reasons. He’s back home for a few days before returning to the border for another crack at crossing. From what I can gather, his first attempt was a freakin’ nightmare, as law enforcement officials from both countries swarmed the border area after drug traffickers murdered someone. I had a long conversation with Jesús (via Mary Alice) yesterday about his situation, and about the plight of his fellow countrymen as they do whatever it takes to put food on the table for their families. Of course I feel for the guy and sure, my problems don’t seem quite so bad in comparison. Someone somewhere is always worse off, but that doesn’t mean I have to act like I’m cool with being hot, or feel fortunate to have two legs instead of one. I AM fortunate to have two legs, but I FEEL annoyed to be disabled. Shit, I don’t have to justify myself to you. Don’t make me jump out of this computer screen and open up a can of whoop-ass. Who are you, anyway? And why am I talking to you?
Anyway, as I was saying, things haven’t really unfolded here as I had hoped since the crippling. I feel like the only sane thing to do is work hard on my recovery every day, which under the present conditions leaves precious little energy for much else. Even if I had more time and energy, I’d still probably rarely leave the confines of this room. If it were just a matter of language, it would be simple enough bridge the cultural divide, but the sense of disconnect has more to do with values, education level, belief systems and common interests. This pueblo is to Mexico City what the hills of Kentucky are to New York City. Folks here speak a Spanish that bears little resemblance to what I’m learning in my computer course. A few years of grade school education is about the average, and the quality of instruction here is so inadequate that even those who finish high school have little to show for it. Basic psychological truths that I take for granted—like the value of emotional expression, or of transparency in relationships—seem to have little currency here, as all around me (and this is no different than my experiences in the United States) I see people propagating self-limiting beliefs and ass-backwards coping strategies that in the long term can only perpetuate unnecessary suffering and ignorance of healthy alternatives.
As a person interested in the spiritual dimension of life and the beauty of art, I find it nearly impossible to connect my personal preferences and understandings with anything I find here. From my perspective, the predominant spiritual vibe is a mix of crudely interpreted Christianity and belief in supernatural beings and forces. Fairies, pixies, gnomes, witches, ghosts and JesuChristo work together behind the scenes in ways I can’t even begin to comprehend. As far as art goes, I have yet to see a shred of evidence that the concept, as I understand it, exists here at all. Most people can’t read, so you won’t hear discussions of literature or new ideas, and the music and television I hear blaring all around me is, frankly, worse than the worst, most shallow garbage you could find in the US. From what I can gather, the most popular musical act around here is a Puerto Rican who calls himself Nigga (pronounced NEE-gah) while sounding about as gangsta as Bette Midler. You’re the wind beneath my wings, Bee-otch! The dude is touring with Enrique Iglesias—need I say more. And the Bumblebee Guy from The Simpsons is actually a dead-on accurate representation of what passes for humor on Mexican television. The most popular shows here are primetime soap operas. If you can imagine a Saturday Night Live spoof presenting the most ridiculous caricature of only the most cheesy elements of poorly produced drama, complete with swoop-in close-ups and slapstick musical sound effects, then you have some idea of how bad the tele-novellas are here. As you can tell, I’m not the anthropologist sitting in the room. But sometimes you have to call it like you see it, and while I fully recognize that people here might find my own way of life equally incomprehensible and/or inferior, that only reinforces the point: I don’t fit in.
Lately, I’ve been socializing more often, as Mary Alice’s research subjects invite us to share meals and whatnot, and to the extent I can connect, I do enjoy the people here, for the most part. I especially enjoy the children, whom I find far more grounded, bright-eyed, self-assured and powerful than their American counterparts. Children have more freedom here, it seems to me. Freedom to explore, to play, to discover, to make mistakes, to engage spontaneously with others. Their power comes from this freedom, I think, manifesting in a vibe of intense wonder and beauty. By comparison, American kids these days are boxed up and shuffled around by well-meaning but fearful parents. The beauty and wonder is still there, just relatively contained and stifled. However, once kids here are old enough to work and/or get married—at about age fourteen or so—the situation seems less rosy. Options are very limited, and perhaps belief systems here simply reflect that sober reality. Older people—and here I cannot think of a single exception—tend to have dismal, gloomy expressions chiseled into their faces, as if the remainder of their days were just more burdens to bear.
So, it’s not like my heart is devoid of compassion, or that I have no sense of appreciation for the way of life here, despite my calling a spade a spade. And while I have never before felt a more keen sense of membership with the human race as a whole, at the same time I have never felt more American, more inseparable from my own culture. In fact, having spent most of my adolescence and adult life struggling to extricate myself from what I viewed as the status quo shackles of tradition and the collective hypnotic trance known as the American Dream, I find myself accepting, even—dare I say—embracing it all now. I suppose it’s finally dawned on me that I can’t separate myself from what I am. And I AM an American.
“U S A! U S A! U S A! U S A! …”
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You’re not going to believe this: We have HOT WATER! Here! On the pueblo! I knew this day would come. Funny thing is, now we don’t have cold water. That’s because it’s so goddamned motherfucking hot outside, the normally cool water coming up from the underground pipes is now, well, hot. Yay!
I just took a shower, hoping to cool down a bit and, truthfully, the water did eventually get somewhat cooler after a while, enough to make the shower worth taking. But then—as we must after all showers—I had to squeegee the entire bathroom. You see, the bathroom becomes a big lake after every shower. This is by design, as the gentlemen who tiled the floor decided—despite my suggestions to the contrary—that it would be better to slope the tile down from the drain, instead of down to the drain. It actually requires considerable effort to squeegee the water back to the drain, because it’s hard to get to the water behind and beside the toilet. While I’m doing this, I typically take a moment to officially nominate the tiles guys for “Biggest Douches in the Universe.” By the time you towel off, it’s mostly sweat glistening on your skin. Of course, you could take another shower, but then, well, you know.
In other news, last night I realized complete spiritual enlightenment. Oh yeah, and also Mary Alice and I decided to live in North Carolina for her “dissertation-writing year.” Elaborate on the enlightenment thing, you say? But Grasshopper, surely you understand that “The true Tao cannot be spoken, and what is spoken is not the true Tao.” All right, so maybe it’s not complete spiritual enlightenment, but goddamnit it was a pretty stark moment of clarity, another in a long line of peak experiences or moments of spiritual awakening which have cropped up over the years. I assume most people have had similar experiences, yet perhaps use different metaphors to convey the essence, but the best I can do is to say it was as if I suddenly stopped splitting myself off from my experience, realizing (yet again) the futility of such nonsense. It was like I put total faith and trust in the universe, recognizing with atypical clarity that the universe and I are inseparable, two aspects of the same process. You know, the same trite bullshit they’ve been printing on bumper stickers for years. But it’s true, and when you really feel it in your bones suddenly life makes perfect sense, the inevitable downsides become unproblematic, and there’s just this awesome sense of freedom. Freedom, dude!
Whatever. Fuck you. How’s that for a bumper sticker. Don’t make me use my newfound spiritual powers to go all Chi-Gung on your ass. I suppose my actions and overall feeling for life will provide the feedback necessary to gauge just how clear my understanding is this time around, how free I really am. Interestingly though, from my lofty point of view last night, even the periods of forgetfulness and ignorance seemed to have their place as perfect manifestations of the universal process/ground of being/wishful thinking/hallucination.
So much for that. The decision to re-settle in North Carolina—at least while Mary Alice completes her PhD—came after a brainstorm while riding the bus to town. It makes sense for so many reasons. First of all, it says “North Carolina” on the plane ticket, so why not keep it simple. Our car is there, along with a good chunk of our belongings. Also, Mary Alice has an opportunity to work with her mother on a non-profit, social service project, which is just the type of thing she wants to do once she finishes school. It’ll be a great way for her to test those waters and gain valuable experience. And shit, I just love North Carolina, having lived there for years, wed there, rocked out there, etc. And it’s only a few hours to Lexington, where Mary Alice will have to go every now and then to meet with her academic advisors and where the bulk of our belongings are, packed in a storage unit.
My best friends, Eric and Jeff, still live in Chapel Hill, and I can hardly contain my excitement when I think about reconnecting both personally and musically with my ex-bandmates. It’s hard to believe it’s been more than four years since I packed up my VW Bus and watched North Carolina fade away in the rearview mirror. It boggles the mind. Isaac Dust was just a baby then, always crying and shitting his pants, and since has learned to walk, talk, and occasionally shout from the depths of his heart. Then he went to Mexico, crippled himself, and had to relearn everything. I wonder what he’ll do next.