Checkmate

[A snippet from a writing project in gestation, which will probably make very little sense if you haven’t read the preceding snippets on the the Zia page.]

Right now I’m thinking it would be a miracle if I can get this knee taken care of before Christmas. It took days to figure out where the nearest MRI facility is located. You’d think the doc, given his area of expertise and the fact that he’s the referring physician, would’ve had an address or phone number for us, but no. “I think there’s a place in Veracruz, in a building across from this other building…”

The next day, the phone cuts out while I’m talking to my insurance rep. No more minutes left. Can’t get to the internet place or it’s closed, etc. Finally, I waded through the mess and got an appointment for next Friday. Then there will be another set of hoops to get tangled up in, at best resulting in me lying on an operating table somewhere in the United States sometime in the next month or so. “No te preocupes Bug,” Jesús is always telling me. “Don’t worry. Every problem has a solution.”

The long periods between medical interventions mean, of course, more days and weeks sitting around in the room immobilized. Fortunately, I was born without the gene that makes one prone to boredom, and I have always enjoyed solitary pursuits. I discovered the chess game on my computer the other day. It took me a few games, incrementally increasing the computer’s level of stupidity, to taste victory. I doubt I’ll play much more, though, as it ceases to feel like play if I have to think for more than ten seconds before making a move.

I never really enjoyed chess, mainly because I never played a match without it feeling like a personal evaluation of sorts, as if my opponent and I were comparing SAT scores or dick sizes. My college buddies and I set up a tournament once, and it turned out to be more stressful than final exams week. My friend Josh and I made it through to the finals where, if memory serves, I prevailed after an agonizingly tense battle. We sweated and strained for hours it seemed, hoping the other would make the critical mistake, which Josh finally did. The feeling of having superior intelligence did not materialize as expected. On the contrary, I felt rather like a shallow prick for wanting to win so badly. And as the blood slowly descended from the confines of my skull, I felt sure I’d never play chess again as long as I lived.

A great guy, that Josh. Always at the ready with a big smile, and possessing a robust, jocular disposition that kept his belly jiggling. I remember when he lost that belly, deciding one day out of the blue to dedicate himself to jogging. I was in the process of rehabbing from major knee surgery (again with the knees!) and happy to have a running partner. We ran grooves into the pavement and tore up the nature trails all across campus. After two months, none of Josh’s clothes fit him.

A year or so later, in order to look lean and mean for the big, college-ending trip to Cancun (again with the Mexico!), we stepped up the jogging routine again. Josh also convinced me it would be a good idea to hit the tanning salon, in order to get a “base tan” to protect our lily-white hides from the harsh tropical sun. We returned from our first session looking like a couple of boiled lobsters. A few hours later, as I was readying myself for bed, I began to itch a little. Within another hour, I was scratching myself like a flea-ridden chimpanzee, every inch of my body screaming for relief. I ran upstairs to check on Josh, finding him with his shirt off, scratching his back with a towel. He let out a big laugh, then said “It feels better if you take a shower,” and so I bounded back downstairs and ran the water over me till it was ice cold. Not two minutes after drying off, the itching returned with a vengeance. It was no longer a laughing matter, it seemed to me. I had to be at work the next morning, 7:30am sharp. It was already approaching midnight, and I surely wouldn’t be able to sleep standing up in the shower.

It finally hit upon us to run to the 24-hour super-center down the street. We frantically searched through the rows of boxes and bottles in the pharmacy aisle, ripping open boxes right then and there, pulling up our shirts and spraying each other’s backs with every anti-itch remedy we could get our hands on. We were lucky not to have been thrown out of the place, such a spectacle we were making of ourselves. Grabbing several bottles of the stuff that seemed to work best, we raced back home and proceeded to empty the contents within an hour or two. Relief lasted a few seconds at a time, at best. Noticing that running seemed to bring some relief, and not knowing what else to do, we strapped on our running shoes and jogged all over town, for what must have been a couple of hours. It had to be about 4am when we finally exhausted ourselves and headed home to take long, cold showers.

Soon the sun was up, and I needed to call in to work. I had a thing for never calling in sick. I don’t think I missed a single day of work in my life up to that point. I decided to tell the plain truth. To my complete surprise, my supervisor was very understanding. In fact, she had experienced the same thing once – “UV rash” she called it. I don’t know when the itching stopped, but eventually we passed out and woke up to long awaited, sweet relief. Needless to say, we cancelled our next tanning appointment.

In Cancun, sitting around the table at a restaurant one evening, out of the clear sky I suggested to my friends that we play a little game. When your turn came, you had to come up with a synonym for the word “fuck.” Any phrase or euphemism would do, from “shag” to “hide the salami,” but the first person to either get stumped or offer up a repeat had to swim naked across the hotel swimming pool when we got back. I assumed (wrongly) that one of the ladies would be first to get flustered, but after a long while, having exhausted nearly every fuck word ever uttered, in multiple languages, Josh slipped up, forgetting someone else had already said “bang.” I still have the photograph of Josh climbing out of the pool, his lily-white ass gleaming, his head cocked as it dawned on him we had taken his towel and clothes.

Later that night, I began a vomiting spree that lasted three days. The meal I enjoyed during the fuck game came up in barely digested chunks. At one point, I pulled a piece of chicken out of my nose the size of a McNugget. At this, none of us could contain our amusement. But I eventually got so sick I began to fear death was imminent. I ended up spending a considerable portion of my vacation money on getting medical attention. I was given injections of unknown substances and told I may have ingested some virus while snorkeling, or else was subject to Montezuma’s Revenge. In any event, I spent the rest of my vacation in bed, while my friends partied and parasailed and did their best to look bummed-out when they returned to see me curled up in the fetal position.

And so I find myself here again, whiling away my days in bed, watching the sun rise and set over Montezuma’s Empire, wondering when he’s going to call it even. He’s got me in a corner, setting me up for the checkmate. Down, but not out, I make my move, careful not to lift my hand from the ivory until the last possible moment, when just about to let go, lips pursed in an expression of subdued resignation, I suddenly, without a breath of warning, squeal like a pig being raped with a turkey-baster. I flip the board over wildly, scattering the pieces everywhere, grab my crutches and gallop for the door.

Every problem has a solution.

Waiting for the miracle…

[A snippet from a writing project in gestation, which will probably make very little sense if you haven’t read these other snippets: Square one, No importa, New tables, Belly of the beast, No turning back, Memories, dreams, reflections, El campo de pueblo, Wait and see, Bug in the Jug, Only now, & When it rains.]

Finished Tropic of Cancer today and felt sad about it. Sipping cold Nescafé in the mornings, following Miller through the streets of Paris – this has been the highlight of my day, every day, for the past couple of weeks. Miller is a kindred spirit, no doubt about it, and it’s almost felt to me as if he’s been at my bedside, regaling me with his reflections and reminiscences, comforting me in a grandfatherly way through a trying time. That’s it right there, I think – his words truly comforted me, and comfort has been hard to come by lately.

I discovered an interesting synchronicity about a hundred pages into the book. Miller goes on at length about peoples’ tendency to wait – all their lives perhaps – for some extrinsic turn of events, for a surge of power emanating from outside themselves, to usher in a time of redemption and transformation in their lives. “Man looks for the miracle” is how he puts it, a phrase which immediately brought to mind the title of my latest collection of songs, “Waiting for the miracle,” which I finished recording and posted on my blog a few weeks before leaving for Mexico. As it is with my creative process in general, music and lyrics typically come to me in a flash of inspiration, which I record as quickly as possible, usually in one spontaneous take. I often get the sensation of delicately holding open a channel – to my unconscious or the muse or whatever – in order to allow the creative energies to flow through and take form in my conscious mind. “Waiting for the miracle” is not only the title of the album and the opening track (my personal favorite) – it is a phrase that has captured my imagination for the past year or so, as if contained within it might be some code I’ve yet to decipher, a secret transmitting in a muffled whisper I can’t quite make out.

Of course it’s possible I simply subconsciously lifted the idea from Miller. I did read Cancer once before, many years ago. I remember being rather unimpressed with the book at that time, telling my brother it was a disappointment in the wake of Tropic of Capricorn and Black Spring. For whatever reason, I savored every word this go around. It felt as if I were reading the book for the first time. Not a sentence struck me as familiar, and when I came across the “miracle” passage, the base of my spine lit up like a fuse, sending fireworks flashing across the dome of my skull for hours. It makes no difference to me whether the insight was born in Miller’s imagination or my own. Hell, if it were originally written on the stall wall of a Burger King restroom, or pissed into the snow by an Eskimo – all the better, I say. Nobody owns the truth – or ideas or song lyrics or melodies, for that matter. We’re all playing with the same wad of Play-Dough, and any one of us can roll out a perfect hot dog once in while, if we’re earnest or lucky enough. In any event, Miller and I gazed upon the same star and thought about this miracle, the one we’ve been waiting on as long as we can remember, the one that promises to turn everything the right way around. This miracle, we realized in a meteoric flash, is a phantom, a no show, and what’s more, it will never show, at least not in the way we always hoped it would.

As with all truths, we can always choose to look the other way, to simply ignore the bare facts of the matter. Or we can still hold out for the deathbed, as many do, for who can definitively say the miracle does not breeze in with the last breath. However, the moment it dawns on us we’ve been waiting for a ghost-train, one is either crushed like bug or completely unburdened. All middle ground is quicksand.

Having just related a rather hilarious anecdote about how an acquaintance of his (a disciple of Gandhi no less) mistakenly shit in the bidet at a French whorehouse, Miller imagines how wonderful it would be if the big miracle we’ve been waiting for turns out to be nothing more than these two lumps of shit, scooped from the bidet and served to us on a silver platter when the curtain finally closes on the whole drama. Miller, so it seems, found freedom in the utter hopelessness and absurdity of it all. And while my spine is still in tact and I’m straining to keep my eyelids raised, nonetheless it was long ago that I felt the ground give way beneath my feet. I’m in up to my armpits now, one hand on my bootstraps and the other upraised, waiting for a helping hand, or a lump of shit. Thanks Henry.

When it rains…

[A snippet from a writing project in gestation, which will probably make very little sense if you haven’t read these other snippets: Square one, No importa, New tables, Belly of the beast, No turning back, Memories, dreams, reflections, El campo de pueblo, Wait and see, Bug in the Jug, & Only now.]

Here on the Pueblo, when it rains, it comes down hard. I’m talking a fucking deluge. The sky just opens up and dumps it all on you – clouds, birds, airplanes, stars – the whole enchilada. It could go on like this for an hour, then suddenly stop, as if a giant, unseen hand just turned off the celestial faucet. A minute later it might come down again in a torrent, for another hour or more. It went on like this all day yesterday, and all through the night.

Of course, I needed to get to San Pedro to see the doctor about my knee. Turns out, my travel insurance will cover the cost of an MRI, as long as El Doctor makes the referral. Jesús didn’t seem concerned about the rain, the condition of the roads, etc., so we headed out about 4:15pm. We managed to get there unharmed, although Jesús did mention as we crossed “the bridge” that there was a good chance it would be under water by the time we returned. “Then what?” I asked, naively. Well, then we’d just have to sit there and wait for the river to go down. Might take several hours, assuming the rain stops. No importa!

Anyway, it was a long wait to see the doc, but once we got in, he quickly went to work on the knee, taking it through all the drills. Of course, the whole exchange had to be translated, the doctor asking me “Does it hurt when I do this?” and me wincing and resisting, but for the most part relating that I didn’t feel any sharp pain, just some discomfort and weird sensations (and fear that at any moment I’d be in agony as a result of his manipulations). The lack of pain seemed to perplex the doc, leading him to believe that the complete ligament tear he was sensing must have been the result of an old injury. “If it was recent, he’d be in more pain” he explained to Molly. He theorized that this old injury caused instability in the knee, causing the meniscus to tear during the soccer game. I told Molly to tell him that, with all due respect, his theory didn’t make sense to me. I’ve only injured my left knee once, seven years ago, and the MRI at that time showed no ligament damage, just a fracture. It healed fine and I’ve had no injuries since. Knee solid as a rock. Played sports a zillion times with total stability. Surely, I haven’t since shredded my knee ligament, without a hint of pain or swelling to indicate an injury took place? Besides, I said, I felt my knee get torn to shreds two weeks ago on the soccer field, with the pain being primarily where the torn ligament used to be. The doctor stuck to his guns, however, insisting the torn ligament must be from an old injury. At that moment, what little confidence I had in him vanished. Worse than being dead wrong, he was setting me up for an insurance nightmare. Old injury = pre-existing condition = no coverage for repair. And surgical repair will be necessary, he said, if I hope to ever play sports again. And I do hope.

“At least we got the MRI referral,” I thought, as we headed back home in the downpour. “We’ll have to travel several hours to get to the nearest MRI facility, deal with continual confusion, etc., but the sooner I can get it done, the sooner I can get back on my feet. The thing now is to get back to the house in one piece.” How Jesús managed to navigate around the puddles and potholes, I don’t know. It was dark and the windows were all fogged up, and Jesus had to continually wipe away a spot through which to see the road ahead. We approached the bridge, but it was no passe. The pavement had to be at least a few feet below the surface of the rushing water, and a downed tree was blocking the way as well. Jesús told us that last year a car tried to cross during a flood like this and four people drowned. We voted unanimously to remain alive, so there was nothing to do but wait. My thoughts were caught up in worries about the surgery, which would have to happen in the United States. “Shit, with all the associated expenses, I might not be able to return to Mexico at all. Even if I could swing the chunk of dough the insurance won’t cover and the travel expenses, still we will lose my part of the grant money if I need to be away for more than a month.” Every now and again a phrase from the mindfulness book would come to mind. Acceptance, Bobby. Don’t get caught up in your thoughts, Bobby. Return to your breath, Bobby. “Fuck all that!” I thought to myself, but before I could elaborate further, we were heading across the bridge, water rushing up over the tires. When we arrived at the house, we noticed that the floor of our room was pretty wet. Rainwater had gotten in through the closed window and the ceiling was leaking in a few places. There was nothing to do but throw down some towels, move the bed to a dry place, and ride out the storm. When I turned the bathroom faucet on, the water that flowed out looked like diarrhea. Chunks of mud were being spit out into the sink. Our hosts informed us that this is just what happens when the river swells beyond its banks. Again, nothing to do about it but wait. It’s now 3pm the following day, and still the water is pure mud. No showering, no washing dishes, no washing clothes until the river deems it so. It’s the beginning of the rainy season, we are told. Might rain like this for days.

So, the MRI trip will have to wait. Patience – Isn’t that one of those fucking pillars of mindfulness? I’ve been laid up for two weeks now, and it’s hard to keep my spirits up. I’m a guy who likes to stay on the move. Shit, my whole philosophy of life has to do with allowing the body to move unfettered. I can see the atrophy setting in already, and I have at least several more weeks of immobility ahead of me. This was not part of the plan but, yes, it’s true, this is how it is. I can make the most of it or continue whining.

One thing I have been doing is sorting through the old journal files. Funny thing, the past. The sense of it I’ve been carrying around with me doesn’t seem to match up with the documentation. Stories I’ve been telling for the past few years, upon close inspection, appear to be significantly edited versions of what “really” happened, assuming the journal entries are closer to the truth of things. I’m not sure what to make of this. After all, we register an experience on a few levels at most, filtering everything through a mesh of conditioning, tangled thoughts and twisted expectations. Considering the teeny tiny attention spans most of us make use of, it’s no wonder it can take years to fully make sense of a single experience, to deeply understand even the briefest of openings to the majesty, the wonder of a given moment.

A few minutes ago, I concluded my trip down memory lane, arriving back at September, 2007. I am struck with how non-linear my past seems, as I sense it from the vantage point of today, right now, as it swirls and bubbles up through the portals of memory and dreams. The dramas and concerns that preoccupied me even a month or two ago, seem no closer to hand nor further away than the smell of Grandma’s kitchen, or the countless nightmares and longings of my youth. And so it will soon be with all this rain, and the worries about my knee, and the bumpy roads and muddy water. Soon the floodwaters will recede, and all will flow back into the mix, into the bubbling swirl of moments forgotten, where the past is churned together with the sound of pigs being slaughtered and the smell of burning plastic and the hollow pangs of hope and despair. A gurgling, sputtering ocean that spits its spindrift toward the sky, where the stars broadcast their secrets through the ether, and where revelation awaits, full of grace, for an open ear…

Only now

[A snippet from a writing project in gestation, which will probably make very little sense if you haven’t read these other snippets: Square one, No importa, New tables, Belly of the beast, No turning back, Memories, dreams, reflections, El campo de pueblo, Wait and see, & Bug in the Jug.]

Know what I like? Roosters. Wait, no – I wish death to all roosters. That’s what I meant to say. But I do like mornings here on the Pueblo. The sun is shining. The roosters are roosting, or whatever the hell it is that roosters do. Molly is off interviewing local health care providers for her research. The kids are at school. Jesús and Juana are off doing whatever the hell it is they do during the day. Sweet solitude.

One good thing about having been crippled so many times in my life is that I’ve developed an impressive array of compensatory skills. A few years ago I broke my leg, and of course was obliged to continue functioning at work despite being crutch-bound. This meant operating the clutch on my VW Bus, a problem quickly solved with a mop handle, some duct tape, and a total disregard for safety. My right hand shifted gears while my left hand operated the clutch, which left the steering wheel in the hands of the Good Lord, as it should be. I was working in a group home, taking care of six guys diagnosed with schizophrenia. I cooked, cleaned, shuttled them around town, occasionally arranged for emergency transportation to the hospital for “re-stabilization” – that sort of thing. The most challenging part of the job, from a one-legged perspective, was preparing the meals. I eventually got to the point where I could carry multiple pots and pans to and from the kitchen, using just my armpits to operate the crutches.

This morning I only went so far as to employ the “one armpit technique,” in order to prepare and clean up after breakfast. It’s nice to be back in a routine of sorts. Breakfast (Raisin Bran), coffee (cold Nescafé), and a bit of reading while the bowels prepare for take off. Sipping my Nescafé, I hear a knock at the door. It’s the tile guys. Rumor has it they’ve been too hung over to work the past several days. They want to do the bathroom now, and even though it will mean keeping the “cargo on the runway” for several hours, I’d rather they get it over with, as this promises to be the last major disruption, vis-à-vis the room. Presently, the entire bathroom becomes a muddy, mosquito-infested swamp after each shower. Last night, coming out onto the bedroom tile, one of my crutches slipped out from under me and I fell (onto the bed, fortunately). Hopefully, they’ll slope the tile so that the shower water runs down into the drain. I don’t want to insult their collective intelligence by explaining this to them, yet I don’t think I can resist doing so (by way of miming).

I’m trying to learn to let things go. Kabat-Zinn lays out the seven foundational attitudes of mindfulness practice as follows: Non-judging, patience, beginner’s mind, trust, non-striving, acceptance, and letting go. So far, I’m getting straight F’s across the board. Non-judging? Hello! Juana, anyone! And so it is on down the line. One thing I find amusing about this whole mindfulness deal is that here I am getting this heavy emphasis on staying in the present, when all the while I’m constantly struggling to express myself in Spanish, due to the fact I only know how to conjugate verbs in the present tense. So, for me, there really is no past and no future. There’s only now, Bobby, there’s only now. And even in the now there’s not much more than “Good morning,” “How are you?” and “I need to use the bathroom, please.”

The toxic fumes of burning garbage drift through the large window directly behind me. Here on the Pueblo, what garbage is not littering the streets is heaped into pits or piles and burned, and our neighbor Rosa typically torches a pile around this time everyday. Everything, from plastic Coke bottles to soiled toilet paper, is set ablaze not fifteen yards upwind, creating a steady flow of lung-coating, eye-burning, stomach-turning smog lasting an hour or more.

The chickens here are “free range,” and they roam from yard to yard feeding on trash heaps. I just threw some leftover chicken bones on the pile the other day. I wonder what chickens think of the taste of chicken. “Mmm, tastes like chicken!”

Despite the beauty of the natural surroundings, if nothing is done about the poverty and total lack of infrastructure, this pueblo will be one big garbage pit in a few years. I can hardly fathom the health problems that must result from the unsanitary conditions. Sometimes I wonder if my nine months here won’t be unlike living in the womb of a crack-addict. Back home, I was more health-conscious than most. No hydrogenated oils. No high-fructose corn syrup. Everything organic, when feasible. My coworkers seemed to get a kick out of it, me with my daily organic spinach salads and PB&J’s made with twelve-grain bread, all natural peanut butter and pure fruit jam. Here I use Skippy and Wonderbread, and I scarf it down like it’s manna. And sure, Coke and Pepsi might be dissolving my teeth, but at least there’s no worry about “the amoeba.” Besides, all the supposed health benefits of mindfulness meditation should balance things out, right?

There’s only now, Bobby. There’s only now.

Bug in the jug

[A snippet from a writing project in gestation, which will probably make very little sense if you haven’t read these other snippets: Square one, No importa, New tables, Belly of the beast, No turning back, Memories, dreams, reflections, El campo de pueblo, & Wait and see.]

Yesterday’s soccer practice. My pulled quad muscle was still troubling me. Trouble was, every time I kicked the ball with my right leg, I felt a good deal of pain. In my broken Spanish I tried to explain to my amigos that I might have to sit this one out. At the last moment, I decided to press on. Didn’t want to look like a candy-ass, what with all the machismo in the air. The previous practice I came up with a mantra to help me stay mindful of my rickety frame: “Stay in your legs, stay with your breath, and go get the ball!” Unfortunately, as we lined up for the scrimmage yesterday, the mantra slipped my mind. Not two minutes into the game, the ball squirted my way and my adversary and I raced to take possession. Our legs collided in a most inauspicious way, causing my left knee to twist violently out of place. I distinctly heard a crackling sound at the moment of impact. The pain was blinding, and I quickly hopped off the field saying “muy malo, muy malo!” (very bad!)

On the sidelines I fell back into the grass and stared up at the sunset sky. Curiously, there was not a thought in my mind, just a sense of absolute resignation. A pack of children quickly surrounded me, peppering me with unintelligible questions and finding much humor in my predicament. One of them pointed at a cloud floating by, saying it looked like a tortuga, a word I recognized as “turtle.” And it did look like a turtle. That much I could hang my hat on.

My “ambulance” arrived after the scrimmage. It was bicycle with a metal basket clamped above the rear wheel. I climbed aboard and held on for dear life, wincing with every bump and jostle as we headed back to the river, which had to be crossed in order to get back to town. My amigos had to carry me across the felled street-lamp beam that served as a bridge.

When I got back to the house, our hosts tried to drag me to some local healer for a “massage” that would make me good as new, but I put my good foot down and insisted on a healer with a diploma on the wall and access to an X-ray machine. Having been through this whole rigmarole before (torn right ACL; broken left tibial plateau), I consider myself somewhat of an expert on busted knees. I wanted to ice and elevate overnight, postponing till morning the extremely bouncy car ride along the road/minefield to San Pedro. Juana, of course, tried to explain why ice was bad and that what I really needed was a hot avocado leaf, or some shit like that. At that moment, I realized I was fairly well fucked. Molly was frantically trying to translate the back and forth, and the best we could do was get them to take us to a doctor immediately, as for some unclear reason Jesús couldn’t make the trip in the morning. Besides, we were told, there was no way to get ice at 9:00pm.

The long, bumpy ride to San Pedro was a chance to test my newly acquired meditative powers. “It’s only pain” became my new mantra. We arrived at the clinic and I was able to get some X-rays taken. I sat for a few minutes, waiting for the results and wondering why they didn’t cover my groin with a lead mat, like they do in U.S. radiology rooms. No importa! I was also hoping for a fracture, as that result would be clear-cut, conclusive, and unlikely to require surgical repair. The X-rays showed otherwise, however, revealing only a congenital floating kneecap fragment (which greatly confounded the initial diagnosis). The trauma specialist then examined my knee and reached the tentative conclusion that meniscus and/or ligament tears were causing the pain and swelling. He also told me I have the knees of a sixty-year-old and recommended I give up sports entirely.

As the nurse injected some unknown substance into my butt-cheek, I slowly slipped back into self-pity mode as “I’m fucked” jumped back to mind. Aside from translated conversations, my entire social life here consists in playing hacky-sack with the kids and soccer with Jesús and his amigos. Lately, guys wave to me in the street, asking if I’ll be at practice later, whereas before there were mostly hushed comments, giggles and stares as I walked through town. Not two hours before the injury, I spent a poop-load of pesos on gear, photos, and registration fees to join the league. All outside of “the budget” and all down the crapper now, not to mention the mounting medical expenses.

My thoughts went on like this the whole ride home. Poor Bobbo. Can’t even walk into town now to use the internet or to buy groceries. Just when I was getting my shit together, it’s back into the belly of the beast. And things just got worse from there. The tiling process was not proceeding as scheduled. For two days following the injury, the men worked from morning until well into the night, so I could not relax and recover in my own room. A day and half had passed before I could get any ice for my knee, so it looked like a grapefruit and I sat in our hosts’ living room in agonizing discomfort for hours upon hours.

I was able to suck it up for the first twelve hours or so, and even had a nice moment or two. Jesús’ brother Manuel, who had helped carry me across the river, stopped by to see how I was doing. Manuel played soccer in old, beat-up sneakers because, according to Jesús, he couldn’t afford cleats. Realizing my soccer days were over, for a while at the very least, I asked Manuel if he would accept my brand new cleats as a gift. He seemed touched, and the good feelings buoyed me along for a few hours or so. But the overall misery level – from pain, extreme discomfort, exhaustion, lack of privacy, worry about my health, etc. – eventually crossed the line as the hours ticked away and it seemed like I’d never get back into my room and into bed.

It was about 10pm, the day following the injury, and I sat there in the middle of the living room surrounded by everyone and all the stuff from our room. I couldn’t keep up the “I’m okay” act any longer, so I pulled my cap down over my face and asked Molly to instruct everyone to please leave me alone. I tried my best to disappear, to completely dissociate from my body, which at this point was in uncharted realms of discomfort. Kids would periodically come by and look under my cap to see if I was awake. I just played dead. Every now and again I’d notice mosquitoes landing on my legs, nourishing themselves on my vital fluids. I imagined I was buried alive in a form-fitted casket, observing the pain and restlessness in my body from a place of near total detachment. I felt as vulnerable as a newborn baby – immobile, uncommunicative, completely at the mercy of others, waiting, hoping for mercy to be shown.

At some unknown hour of the night, Molly roused me and informed me she had successfully pleaded with our hosts and the workers to make a small space in our room where the bed could be re-assembled and my lifeless carcass deposited. I lied there with my hat over my face until the workers at last left for the night. They explained to Molly that they had needed to finish the room, no matter how long it took, because they had another job tomorrow morning they could not afford to miss. The bathroom tile would have to wait until that other job was completed. At last there was privacy enough to let the sobs come. They were necessarily stifled sobs, of course, as our host family was but a few feet away behind a thin curtain. The tears flowed under my cap for a long time. I felt like everything that had been holding me together had been stripped away.

*

Two days have now come and gone, and I am once again in my familiar spot next to the window, leg braced and propped up on the bed. Molly has gone to the store to stock up on the bare necessities. Grocery shopping used to be my job, along with cleaning dishes and the assorted odd jobs that require a man’s strength. Now, and for at least the next few weeks as we see how the knee heals, everything falls on my wife’s shoulders. Without modern conveniences, chores here are rather time-consuming when able-bodied and aided. Now, everything is just one big pain in the ass after another. And, as far as my Molly is concerned, I am just one big pain in her ass. I can’t argue with that.

I hate being dependent on anyone, especially on our hosts, and on Juana in particular. Since I arrived, the sound of her voice hits me like nails on a chalkboard. Everything she does annoys me to no end, no matter how helpful she tries to be. This is all me, one hundred percent my issue, but under stress I have a hard time keeping it in check. The other night, while our stuff was being put back into our room, we noticed our water jug was empty. Molly is not strong enough to confidently lift a full twenty-liter jug into the dispenser, so Juana swooped in to the rescue. She got the job done, providing me with convenient, bedside access to life-giving agua. Yet, all I could think was: “Did she just spill water all over my books?” and “She didn’t clean off the top of the jug before she put it in, did she?”

I smiled and thanked her just the same, as always, but as soon she left I disgustedly inspected her work. “Ah ha! There’s a bug swimming around inside the container! Inside the jug, contaminating my clean water! It was probably crawling around in the dispenser as she put the jug in. I should’ve tried to do it myself”, I thought. I pointed the bug out to Molly and she rolled her eyes at me in disgust, weary as she must’ve been of my perpetual state of dissatisfaction.

I know this is all taking a severe toll on her, and I am doing my best to be mindful of how my reactions are affecting her. Today, things are better. Difficult, yes, but better. Routine trips to the bathroom can still turn into thirty-minute chores. Crutches—these wooden things that must be a hundred years old—still slip and slide on the wet tile. I need help to wash my feet. I toss and turn all night, searching for comfort, but succeeding only in disturbing Molly’s sleep.

But I’m back writing again, and today I found a way to fix my own breakfast. I’m even washing dishes again. A little while ago we needed to replace the water jug again, and I thought about it doing it myself, but only for a second. I tried to coach Molly through it, but we needed help, Juana’s help. And again, she got the job done. Water splashed all over the floor, but this time we all laughed. Molly noticed the little bug lying dead inside the empty jug. Then it occurred to me. Bug. That’s what everybody calls me here. That’s how they pronounce “Bob.” I corrected them a few times in the beginning, but the habit had already stuck. Besides, I thought at the time, being called “Bug” might make for an interesting story down the road, maybe even providing a touch of irony at just the right moment.

Bob writing in Mexico

Hola, from Veracruz

This is more or less a test run, to see whether or not I can blog from this little internet place in town. It´s a slow dial-up connection, and many of the characters on the keyboard don´t seem to function correctly, but we´re doing our best here.

We arrived on the “red-eye” bus from Mexico City this morning, and we´re getting settled into life in the “Pueblo.” Don´t let the internet connection fool you. It´s no frills baby. No frills.

The family we´re staying with are very nice, although it´s tough for me to make small talk in a language I can´t understand.

Yo tengo sueno.

Hasta luego.

El Museo Nacional de Arte y El Templo Mayor

Here are a couple of snap-shots to get things rolling. The first is Mary Alice and me at the National Art Museum in the Centro Historico. Amazing place. I could spend an entire day looking at the ceilings.

The next photo is Mary Alice at the Templo Mayor, the ruins of an Aztec pyramid set right in the middle of Mexico City. Very cool…

We’ll try to check in again soon after we get settled in Veracruz. Apparently, Hurricane Dean did not cause too much trouble where we will be staying.

Hasta Luego!

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Mexico City

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A boy, about seven or eight, just appeared before me, stuck his hand out directly under my nose, and demanded some pesos. I probably shouldn’t have given him anything, because he was probably scamming me. He was pretty well dressed and couldn’t help laughing a few times. I speak very little Spanish at this point, but I did manage to understand that he said he was hungry, wanted some money for food, and claimed not to have a mother or father. I gave him ten pesos, then he walked out, knocked on the window, and laughed at me again.

I’m sitting in a Starbucks. Outside I can see a Dominos Pizza. There’s also a McDonald’s, a Subway, a Dunkin Donuts, a KFC and a Wal-Mart. Did I mention I was in Mexico City?

I’m freakin’ exhausted at the moment, but this is first time I’ve had access to the World Wide Web in a while, so I’m gonna post through the pain. Actually, I’ve had a great time so far in Mexico City. The Fulbright people have given Mary Alice and I the red-carpet treatment, and the people we’ve met have been wonderful. We visited the historical district this afternoon and took our first snap-shots with the new camera. Once I figure out how work the thing, I’ll post the highlights.

I feel like I have a bull’s eye on my forehead right now, so I’m going to pack up the lap-top, run back to the hotel, and lose myself in Mexican TV. The Simspons was on earlier, but I didn’t get a chance to see how they translate “D’oh” into Spanish.

Ghosts

The past is tricky thing. I’m not sure if it exists at all, but at the very least my mind is triggered by certain people, places and things to release a sputtering stream of selective memories and slumbering emotions.

I’m sitting in a chair at the Open Eye Café, a coffee shop in Carrboro, NC where I spent countless hours brooding and dreaming. This was all years ago, when the café was in the building next door, in a cramped but charming little space that became known as “Carrboro’s living room.” It really was a second living room for me, just a stone’s throw from my old house on West Carr St. The chair next to me is an original from the old space. It’s green and stiff-backed and tattered. I used to hate being stuck with that chair, if the place was too crowded to score a spot on the sofa. The new space is huge, and there are enough chairs and tables to hold a town meeting.

I used to know the whole staff, but today all the faces are new. Tattoo-clad Carrboro scene-sters, dressed in funky thrift store vintage, too cool for school and a little too aloof, too detached. Maybe it’s just me.

Last week I was home with the family, the ghosts of yesterday floating through every nook and cranny, coloring my perception, making things smoky and sentimental. Last night Eric and I went out to see a rock show at the “Resevoir,” which used to be “Go! Studios” back in the day. The stage where I played my final show with the band is now where the bar is. The new stage is where the bar used to be. Everything is mixed up, muddled, mangled a bit. Things are not quite where they should be. Like in a dream, only I’m not dreaming. I think.

I hear there’s a respectable family now living in the old house. I cruised down Carr St. to take a look, but it was hard to make anything out through the trees, hard to tell if there’s even a house there anymore. I thought about going up the long, winding driveway to get a closer look, but I didn’t want to freak anybody out. I didn’t want to freak myself out.

Perhaps, in that house, I’m the ghost floating about.

On the road

Just a quick update to let everyone know I’m still alive.

Mary Alice and I successfully moved all of our crap into a storage unit and then immediately hit the road for New York to visit with my family. My back is still aching. I think it was the piano that finally did me in. Anyway, we’ve been hanging out here in Troy, and we also had a chance to check out Northampton, MA, which is a potential long-term destination. Pretty funky town. The slogan is: “Where the coffee is strong, and so are the women.” So, my wife and I are both covered. My three favorite places — San Francisco, Carrboro, and Northampton — all have thriving lesbian populations. Go figure.

Tomorrow morning we roll on to North Carolina, to visit with my wife’s Mom and my best friends. Then it’s onward to Mexico City. Life is rushing by in a blur. I’m feeling around, hoping for something to hold on to, struggling for some clarity of perspective. Guess I’ll wash ashore soon enough.